Categories
General Computing

USB 3 vs USB 2 – speed tests with corsair flash voyagers

UPDATE POST/BENCHMARKS CAN BE FOUND HERE :

LINK

I decided to run a test on the similarly looking USB devices from Corsair. Test rig :

Asus P8P67 PRO
i5 2500k
16gb ddr3
Corsair 600T case

Test devices :

Corsair Flash Voyager 16GB USB 3 (CMFVY3-16GB)
Corsair Flash Voyager 1GB USB 2 (CMFUSB2.0-1GB)

At first glance, you notice the USB 3 is a little bigger, almost 35% larger then the original USB 2.

[zp src=”corsair voyager.JPG” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

The first test is USB 2 running off the USB 3 front panel, with 1GB USB 2 Flash Voyager.

[zp src=”usb2-front.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

Second is USB 3 running off USB 3 front panel, with 16GB USB 3 Flash Voyager.

[zp src=”usb3-front.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

The third test is USB 2 running off USB 3 rear panel (on the motherboard), with 1GB USB 2 Flash Voyager.

[zp src=”usb2-rear.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

The fourth test is USB 3 running off USB 3 rear panel (on the motherboard)l, with 16GB USB 3 Flash Voyager.

[zp src=”usb3-rear.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

Those are some very solid numbers coming from USB 3. I was expecting to see in the 100MB/s, but solid 68MB/s is pretty good as well. It was good to see zero difference between my rear, onboard USB 3 as the front panel USB 3 though.

*UPDATED with write tests

USB 2 on the front panel USB3 slot :

[zp src=”usb2-atto.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

USB 3 on the front panel USB3 slot :

[zp src=”usb3-atto.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

USB3 on front panel USB2 slot :

[zp src=”usb3 on usb2-read.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

[zp src=”usb3 on usb2-bench32.png” album=”blog/corsair usb3/” width=”600″]

If you want some other tests run, let me know, I am more then happy to accommodate :).

Categories
Computer Hardware Uncategorized

Dell D620/D630 PCMIA slot stops working

Have you ever run into this issue? We have MANY aircards and ran into this a handful of times. The first time around we went through drivers, different PCMIA cards, etc. So we called Dell, that had no idea, and sent us out a new PCMIA card. I decided to install it myself, instead of a tech this time. What I found out was that the ribbon cable (seen in the following picture), is actually coming loose. So if you push down on the left side of the palm rest (with the laptop off, the hard drive is right there as well, we do not want that spinning). That’s right the fix is :

Push down on the left side of the palm rest (with the laptop off), and it should make a connection. If you notice, the adapters naturally want to pull out of the little socket they plug into.

I later found out that this was a huge issue with D620’s, and with D630’s, they actually have a thicker pad between the palm rest and the ribbon…go figure!

[zp src=”d620_adapters.JPG” album=”blog/etc/” width=”600″]

Categories
Software

ATI/AMD 6950 crossfire flicker at desktop and in games with 2 monitors

I have 2 x XFX 6950 2GB (reference) cards water cooled, great temps, great scores with a little overclock from within the CCC. I noticed a pretty bad flicker on both monitors when playing youtube/flash videos. I also noticed it when I was gaming (bad company 2, starcraft 2, League of Legends, etc). I tried new drivers (11.4, 11.5 + associated hotfixes), and I tried old 10.x drivers as well, with different crossfire profiles. I also tried running with 1 monitor, 1 gpu, etc.

The Fix :

Disable ATi overdrive in the CCC panel with driver 11.5 I am running solid, no more flickering! I then just use MSI Afterburner for my OC. I wrote a quick article on how to open up overclocking on there as well

http://vivithemage.com/2011/03/enabling-unofficial-overclocking-in-msi-afterburner-2-1/

Categories
drivers

ACPI SMO8800 driver missing for Dell E6410/E6420/E6510/E6520 – unknown device ACPI SMO8800

We received a bunch of new Dell E6420’s at work, and needed to get them prepped for drivers and our image deployment. We run a deployment process through Landesk OSD, with HII (Hardware Independent Imaging), which basically means that we have 1 image for multiple model computers.

I installed our basic Windows 7 Pro x32 image on the new machine, and was going through drivers that needed to be installed, and ran into one tricky one. In Device Manager, right-click the device and click Properties. Under the details tab, choose Hardware ID from the drop box. You’ll see something like ACPI\SMO8800 (that’s what the unknown device was on mine). Google that hardware ID and you’ll find that it’s an accelerometer, a device that detects when your laptop may be falling and instantly stops the hard disk so it isn’t damaged on impact.

I went through and extracted the drivers for it in Windows 7 x86/x64, Vista x86/x64, and XP x86/x64. The zip file is 2.79 MB (2,926,227 bytes). You can download the drivers here : LINK IS DEAD

All you have to do is extract it (I use 7zip), and navigate your update drivers to your respective OS version and x86/x64 version. If you want a more detailed write up on how to do it, with pictures, let me know.

Hopefully this helps :).

Categories
Computer Hardware

IBM Lenovo X220 break down/tear down for mSata SSD (intel 310, Renice X3 (SF1222), etc)

After doing some research on the best sandy bridge, ultra portal … I have decided on this awesome new laptop .. the IBM x220.

You can view the x220 datasheet (hardware options) : linked here (PDF).

I know some people will want to get an mSata SSD installed, this is a break down for that, with pictures!

1) RENICE 50mm mSATA.
[zp src=”1.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

2) Flip it and remove screws.
[zp src=”2.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

3) Turn it over, take the keyboard out.
[zp src=”3.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

4) Remove the keyboard connector, be careful here, it looks delicate!
[zp src=”4.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

5) Keyboard removed.
[zp src=”5.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

6) Flip it again, and remove the front screws.
[zp src=”6.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

7) Remove the back ‘shelf’.
[zp src=”7.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

8) Now we have access to the mSata area.
[zp src=”8.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

9) Slip your mSata drive in.
[zp src=”9.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

10) screw in the mSata drive.
[zp src=”10.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

11) Put it back together, start with the palm rest.
[zp src=”11.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

12) Snap the blue connector for the touchpad.
[zp src=”12.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

12.5) Flip it over, and screw in the palm rest, and attach the keyboard, screw that back in as well.

13) Assembly done, let’s boot.
[zp src=”13.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

14) BIOS see’s our mSata drive.
[zp src=”14.jpg” album=”blog/x220″ width=”600″]

.. Enjoy!

Hopefully someone finds this useful! I pulled these images from a thread in Anandtech, to make it more searchable.

Categories
file sharing uploadland.com

Free file upload website – www.uploadland.com

Hello all.

I recently acquired a domain www.uploadland.com and have finally gotten around to making it worth a damn! I had a company come in and recode it, so it works properly, and am in the midst of getting the site integrated with vB forums, so that I can do a lot of cool features for those that use the forums.

If you have any ideas what I could do to improve on the site, please let me know. Otherwise, check it out!

Did I mention it was free to upload/share files? 🙂

http://www.uploadland.com

Categories
Cases

Corsair 600T – Full Acrylic Side Panel

So, after a few cuts of my acrylic piece, Bill, the owner over at MNPCtech.com, came over to my place, and dropped it off! It looks really clean, and it fits perfectly….without further ado :

[zp src=”P1000125.JPG” album=”vivi/600T/acrylic” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000121.JPG” album=”vivi/600T/acrylic” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000123.JPG” album=”vivi/600T/acrylic” width=”500″]

Categories
Water Cooling

Water Cooling an Antec 300 – Q9550 Round 2

So, I have decided to water cool my Antec 300 case….which acts as my 24/7 HTPC workhorse.

Specs :

Antec 300
Q9550
2GBx4 DDR2
3 x 2TB Samsung HDD
2 x 2TB WD Drives (backups)
Asus P5N-D

I started with an RS240 XSPC kit, but found the pump to be far too loud and not adequate for my set up, so I am moving to the following build :

Water Cooling specs :

Reservoir : RS240 pump/res comboKoolance RP-402X2 Dual 5.25 Reservoir for 1-2 DDC Pumps + RP-402X2 KIT
Pumps : Swiftech MCP 350’s
Radiator : RS240 from the RS240 Kit/Combo
Tubing : rimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing – 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD
Barbs : What came with the kit
Fans : 4 x SCythe SFF21G
90 Degree Fitting : 4 x Koolance G1/4 Swivel 90° Angled Barb
45 Degree Fitting : 2 x Koolance Swiveling G1/4 Threaded 45 Degree Low Profile Angle Fitting
CPU Block : Came with the kit – XSPC CPU block
Northbridge block : Custom fabbed block from a guy on overclock.net
PCI Tube G1/4 Slot : Koolance L-Bracket with Dual G 1/4 Socket Fittings (BKT-PCI-G)
Radblock Mount : Swiftech MCB-120™ “Radbox”

This is my Antec 300 water cooled as of today.

[zp src=”P1000025.JPG” album=”vivi/300″ width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000026.JPG” album=”vivi/300″ width=”500″]

I had an issue with the rad out back, and a major kink. This is what it looked like :

[zp src=”P1000027.JPG” album=”vivi/300″ width=”500″]

This is what it looks like now :

[zp src=”P1000119.JPG” album=”vivi/300″ width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000120.JPG” album=”vivi/300″ width=”500″]

Categories
Water Cooling

Corsair 600T Water Cooled – i5 2500k – 2×6950 reference – 16GB DDR3

This is my second water cooling build, ever. I think it turned out really well. My temps are rock solid at full load, the GPU’s barely move up 5C when 100% in games. Idle around 27-30C on them. The CPU hits 35C on full load, but I have not overclocked it yet. best of all, I met all of my goals I set out to do with this build.

This is more of an ‘after’ build log, as the system is up and running now :).

Now to the parts :

CPU : i5 2500k
Motherboard : Asus P8P67 PRO
Case : Corsair 600T
PSU : Corsair HX1000
Memory : 4x4GB G.Skill DDR3 1600
GPU : 2x Reference 2GB XFX 6950’s shader unlocked and oc’d
Optical : 2x Asus DVD-RW/CD/R drive
Hdd : OCZ Solid 2 120GB
Hdd : 1TB WD Black

WC Parts :

Pumps : 2x Swiftech MCP-655-B
Res : Koolance RP-452×2
Hose : PrimoChill UV Blue (1/2 ID, 3/4 OD)
CPU : EK Supreme HF
GPU Block : 2x XSPC 6970 Reference coolers
Rad – Top : Swiftech MCR220-QP
Rad – Front : Phobya 200MM
Fans : 2x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E 1x Antec COOLER MASTER Megaflow 200mm
Water : Distilled + pt nuke
Barbs : 1 x 90 bitspower, 8+ XSPC short barbs (1/2 ID, 3/4 OD)
QDC : 2 sets of Koolance QDC’s for easy GPU removal (6 month upgrades won’t require a major overhaul on the loop with these.

Specific links for the GPU setup :

This is the connector between the two cards :
Koolance VID connector

I got 2 male QDC’s – Koolance QDC – Male
2 female QDCs – Koolance QDC – Female
1 90degree barb – 90 degree rotary bitspower barb

I had 4 goals in this build

1) Reduce GPU temps
2) No cuts/drilling/100% stock
3) All internal , serial loop
4) quiet, low-no noise
5) Get my feet wet, and progress my PC hobby skills 🙂

Issues I ran into :

1) Bleeding the RP-452×2 with inserts/serial kit was almost impossible. What I did was pulled, all acrylic inserts out, and put hte connector up top. I slowly overfilled the right side of my res with a barb-hose(roughly 14 inches), and just stop/start/stop/start as it filled the rads/pushed air out. It took about 2 hours to get it done, but now it’s silent.

This was my set up to bleed it, you really don’t need this long of a hose either :

[zp src=”P1000084.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

2) The top rad was in the way of my 8 pin CPU connector, so I purchased an extender, and snipped the top off, so I could make room, you can see it in this picture :

This is where I snipped (in red) so it could fit :

[zp src=”chopchop.jpg” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000079.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000078.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

3) My second issue was mounting the front 200MM rad, without having to drilled/cut anything. I managed to actually use the 200mm fan clip/mounting system that the 600T comes with … relatively ingenious if I do say so myself. I only have one fan in pull, but it works perfectly fine for me, no need for a second fan to push.

[zp src=”P1000103.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000104.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

Here’s the little contraption mounted :

[zp src=”P1000082.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

This was very helpful, I was able to take the rad out, and pound on it a bit, to get ALL of the air out, I could remove it entirely from the case, without having to take off any bolts. The only thing you have to do, is be very precise with the location of the stock clips, because they seem to be finicky if they are off by even a centimeter or two.

4) This was my first time ripping a part GPU’s, so I took some screens of what they looked like after I pulled the stock coolers off. Apparently taking the stock coolers off voids the warranty (says the little stickers on the screws for the mount) :D.

[zp src=”P1000081.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000080.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

For reference, this was the original build, before water :

[zp src=”P1000014.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

Here were my pre loop thoughts :

[zp src=”proposedWC.jpg” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”proposed2.jpg” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

Here is a little pre-tubing shot :

[zp src=”P1000083.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

Some leak testing :

[zp src=”P1000085.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

The complete/final build :

[zp src=”P1000118.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000115.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000116.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000117.JPG” album=”vivi/600T” width=”500″]

**Updated and added full acrylic side :

[zp src=”P1000125.JPG” album=”vivi/600T/acrylic” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000121.JPG” album=”vivi/600T/acrylic” width=”500″]

[zp src=”P1000123.JPG” album=”vivi/600T/acrylic” width=”500″]

Categories
Cases Water Cooling

Water Cooling an Antec 300 – Q9550

So, I have decided to water cool my Antec 300 case….which acts as my 24/7 HTPC workhorse.

Specs :

Antec 300
Q9550
2GBx4 DDR2
3 x 2TB Samsung HDD
2 x 2TB WD Drives (backups)
Asus P5N-D

I started with an RS240 XSPC kit, but found the pump to be far too loud and not adequate for my set up, so I am moving to the following build :

Water Cooling specs :

Reservoir : RS240 pump/res comboKoolance RP-402X2 Dual 5.25 Reservoir for 1-2 DDC Pumps + Swiftech MCP 350’s
Radiator : RS240 from the RS240 Kit/Combo
Tubing : rimoFlex Pro LRT UV Red Tubing – 1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD
Barbs : What came with the kit
Fans : 4 x SCythe SFF21G
90 Degree Fitting : 4 x Koolance G1/4 Swivel 90° Angled Barb
45 Degree Fitting : 2 x Koolance Swiveling G1/4 Threaded 45 Degree Low Profile Angle Fitting
CPU Block : Came with the kit – XSPC CPU block
Northbridge block : Custom fabbed block from a guy on overclock.net
PCI Tube G1/4 Slot : Koolance L-Bracket with Dual G 1/4 Socket Fittings (BKT-PCI-G)
Radblock Mount : Swiftech MCB-120™ “Radbox”

I have changed a few things from when I started,so I will post new pictures once completed again. The pumps will run serial, with that little koolance res kit.